The short answer: the fade is named for where the shortest part of the blend starts. A low fade starts just above the ear, a mid fade starts around the temple, and a high fade starts up near the top corner of the head. Low fades soften a round or wide face because they keep weight on the sides. High fades stretch a face taller and sharper, which suits round and square faces but can make a long face look longer. Mid fades sit in the middle and work on almost everybody, which is why it is the cut we do most at the shop on Central Ave.
Low fade: keeps the sides full
A low fade drops from your natural length down to skin or near-skin in a narrow band just above the ear and around the back of the neck. Because the blend stays low, the sides of your head keep their width and the cut reads conservative — it looks like a tidy haircut rather than a statement.
Pick a low fade if your face is long or narrow, since you want to keep some width instead of stretching your head vertically. It is also the safest option for anyone who has to look neat at work on Monday and does not want an obvious line. Low fades grow out gently too: the band is small, so a week of growth softens instead of forming a hard shelf.
Mid fade: the everyday fade
A mid fade starts the blend around the temple, roughly level with your eyebrow at the side of the head. It gives you visible contrast without stripping the sides bare. If you are looking at photos and thinking "that's just a good fade," you are usually looking at a mid fade.
It suits round faces because the shorter side panel adds a bit of vertical line, and it suits square faces because it keeps the jaw looking strong instead of boxy. On oval faces almost nothing goes wrong. Pair a mid fade with a textured top if your hair has movement, or a short crop if it does not.
High fade: maximum contrast
A high fade takes the blend up near the parietal ridge — the corner where the side of your head turns into the top. The sides go very short very high, so all the visual weight lands on top. It is the sharpest looking of the three and the fastest to lose its edge.
High fades are strong on round and wide faces because they trade width for height. They also show off curls, coils and a defined top. If your face is already long, or you have a high hairline you would rather not spotlight, drop to a mid fade instead. Be honest about upkeep too: a high fade looks its best for about a week to ten days.
Matching the fade to your face shape
- Round: mid or high fade, some height left on top. Avoid a heavy, wide low fade — it doubles down on the width.
- Square: mid fade. The jaw already has structure, so you want clean lines rather than extreme contrast.
- Oval: any of the three. Choose based on how much upkeep you want.
- Long or narrow: low fade, and leave a little more weight on the sides.
- Heart shaped or wider forehead: mid fade with some texture and fringe left forward to break up the hairline.
Things that matter more than the label
Two people can ask for a mid fade and walk out with different cuts, because the fade is only one part of the haircut. What actually decides how it looks is the length left on top, whether the top is textured or blunt, how hard the guideline is, and whether the temples and nape get a razor line-up. When you sit down, talk about all four — our guide on how to talk to your barber covers the exact words to use.
Hair type also sets limits. Tight curls hold contrast beautifully and a skin fade will look crisp. Fine, straight hair shows every line, so a slightly softer blend often looks better than going straight to skin. Cowlicks and a swirl at the crown change where a guideline can sit without looking crooked. That is a five second conversation in the chair, not a problem.
How often you will be back
Higher fade, more often. A high fade wants a refresh every one to two weeks, a mid fade every two to three, a low fade can stretch to three or four if the top is longer. If you want the full breakdown, read how often you should get a fade and what growing one out actually looks like week by week.
Getting one cut in Oak Lawn
We cut low, mid and high fades every day at 10311 S Central Ave in Oak Lawn, and clients drive in from Chicago Ridge, Evergreen Park, Burbank, Worth and Alsip because the wait is short and the chairs keep moving. A men's haircut is $30, a kids cut is $25, and a beard trim added on is $20 — see the full haircut prices menu before you come. If you are not sure which fade you want, come in and we will look at your hairline and face together and pick one.
Walk in any day except Monday, or find us on the map on the visit the shop page. If you would rather check the wait first, call (708) 351-1770 and we will tell you straight.